Coming Home & Reflections on Africa

Getting ready to go home was a frenzy of good-byes, exchanging addresses and stuffing suitcases. Fortunately, I had plenty of room in my suitcase after giving away the rest of the clothes I had brought. I literally went home with the clothes on my back.
Leaving Africa was hard. I had met so many wonderful people and had seen so many needs (some that I thought I could even help to fulfill if I had more time). We had worked hard and had fun doing so. We were tired - physically and emotionally. We had seen and done so much in such a short time, yet had done so little to make much of an impact. However, none of us were looking forward to the long (26 hour trip). Yet, I was anxious to get home to see my family (and my dog)!
I knew I would return home a changed person - and I wondered how those changes would affect me and those around me.
After doing a little shopping at the airport and buying some AMAZING batiks, we had to hurry to the plane where we sat for more than 3 hours while they worked out 'a security issue'. As the plane took off and I watched Africa disappear under the cloud bank, I knew it wasn't 'kwaheri' (good-bye) and that I would return again some day. (Hopefully soon!)

Day 9 - Nairobi Part 2

We met one more time in late afternoon with Dr. Emily, Dr. Peter (president of the Board of Directors of LIA), and Dr. Florence for our formal debriefing and to prepare for our return home. It was the first time we had met Dr. Peter and he talked to us about possible 'culture shock' upon returning home and urged us not to feel guilty for all that we have after witnessing such extreme poverty. He quoted the apostle Paul about 'being content' and enjoying the blessings God has given us (and using them as He would have us to).

Then Dr. Florence spoke very eloquently about the significance of 'Homecoming', reminding us that 'home' gives us identity, a sense of belonging and a place where we can be ourselves and function at our best. She recounted the stories of several individuals in the Bible who went out proud, rich and confident and came back humbled and willing to take on the servant's role. She said there was great significance in 'going back' - that it's a type of milestone that begins a new line of history. She told how Jacob went out, wrestled with an angel and had his name changed. She talked about the prodigal son and how he was willing to accept a lesser role in order to be back in his father's household when he returned from a 'far country'. She explained how we are about to begin a new chapter in our lives - that a new story is being written. The story begins with a plan that is blessed by God. She acknowledged that we will come back forever changed and urged us to return to fulfill whatever it is that we were meant to fulfill - reminding us that we will have to give an account on how we use the opportunity God gives each of us. She pronounced a blessing on each one of us then closed by saying, "May it never be said that we did not do our part." Powerful words from an incredible woman - and a great challenge to live up to.

Then it was time to head for the airport and begin our long journey home - from Nairobi to Amsterdam, to Newark, to Detroit.

Day 9 - Nairobi

We got up before dawn on our last day in Africa to go on a safari. It was only a short drive to the Nairobi Game Park. The safari was a bit of a strange experience for me - and my least favorite part of the trip. (But remember, I'm not a huge fan of zoos, and this just seemed like a 'cage-less' one to me.) The terrain of the park didn't seem any different from that of the rural areas where we had spent the past couple of days. We drove along small roads in a van with a pop-up top that allowed us to stand up and take photos of any animals we might see. Four of the 'Big 5 Game Animals' - cape buffalo, rhino, lion, leopard and elephant - were present in this park. Sadly, there are no elephants. We did see 3 of the 5 (lion, buffalo and rhino) along with many giraffes, gazelles, impalas, wildebeests, monkeys, and countless birds. Sadly, no zebras or hippos. We left the Game Park and went to an Elephant Orphanage where baby elephants are being raised with the hopes of returning them to the wild. They were adorable!
We stopped by Java House for lunch on the way back to the guesthouse where we said good-bye to JJ who was heading to a different part of Kenya to visit family before returning home. Our re- exposure to western style food left many of us with upset stomachs. Then it was back to the guesthouse to pack and for a final meeting with Dr. Florence and the LIA team.

Day 8 - Thika to Nairobi

Our presence in Thika had created quite a stir and the local pastors and community leaders asked to meet with us all again this morning for a prayer service/devotional. We returned to one of the local settlements in an area called 14 Falls and met in a small church - called 'The House of Prayer for All People'. Many of the locals had been there since daybreak, praying and fasting. Several more arrived throughout the morning, having traveled long distances on foot, by motorcycle 'taxi' or by bicycle. Many wanted to share their 'stories' about how God was working in their lives. Then there was a mini-sermon in English and Swahili (and sometimes even in Swahinglish). The message was about how 'the battle is not ours, but God's' and that He will fight for us if we are doing His will. Then came the time for prayers. It's very interesting that during these prayer services everyone prays their own personal prayers out loud at the same time for a LONG time - then is closed in a 'corporate' prayer by one person. Next came some of the most beautiful singing I've EVER heard and while I couldn't understand the words, I knew the intent. I had goosebumps the entire time. During the entire time chickens wandered in and out of the building and goats bleated outside the door. As we got ready to leave, we were able to give out more dresses. One of the things that was most unique about Africa is how much God is part of every aspect of their daily lives. As one of the men said to me, 'all is spiritual'. Another is their awareness of the power of evil in the world. Many (if not most) Africans come from a background involving sorcery and witchcraft. When one man arrived late to meet with us, he explained that the 'spirits detained him' in an attempt to keep him from hearing the word of God. (A MUCH better excuse than 'I forgot to set my alarm."!)

Then we got in the van and traveled a short distance to 14 Falls for a bit of R&R. The name comes from the waterfalls that are created as the Athi River (the second largest river in Kenya) makes a 25 foot drop on its way to the Indian Ocean @ 750 km away. We climbed down a steep trail to the base of the falls where we were entertained by local boys who plunged off the falls. After swimming to shore, they offered to take us across the river in their boat. I considered this until I saw their boat, then I politely declined! We left 14 Falls and drove through Thika Town to a well-known restaurant called the Blue Post Hotel situated at Thika Falls. We ate lunch as monkeys swung through the trees above our head. By the way, I am now terrified of monkeys! Soon it was time to say good-bye to our interpreters and friends, Susan and Ernest who before they left gave several of us African names. Mine is Wanjiru - which means 'of the family of the dark skinned people'. They also said that my dowry would be worth 3 cows - my traveling companions convinced them to throw in a chicken for good measure. So now I know my worth! Then it was back to Nairobi for our final 'debriefing', to pack and try to get a good night's sleep since we were getting up before dawn the next day to go on safari.

Day 7 - Nairobi to Thika

We got up early, loaded into the van and headed for Thika, a town of @70,000 people 120 km NE of Nairobi. Located in the highlands of the mountain range that includes Mt. Kenya and Mt. Kilimanjaro, this is mainly an agricultural region known for coffee and pineapple plantations. It is also home to 14 Falls and Thika Falls, the site of many Tarzan movies. We didn't actually stay in town, instead we were out in the countryside. Our guest house was located in the shadow of Ol Donyo Sabuk - Buffalo Mountain - considered sacred by the local tribe.
After checking in and eating lunch, we drove further out into the countryside to visit churches and schools in several settlements. At last, it was time to hand out dresses! (And shorts for the little boys). This had to be the most fun (and rewarding) part of the trip. The children were dressed in dirty rags and to see their eyes light up when they realized that they were getting brand new clothes was amazing. We visited a total of 4 sites this afternoon and handed out dresses at each one. The children sang for us and we played with them. There was lots of laughter and hugs. By the time we returned to our compound, it was nearly dark and we were exhausted. Before going to bed, I had the opportunity to see the Southern Cross. It had been a GREAT day!

Day 6 - Nairobi Slums Part 2

After lunch, it was determined that we would go to Kibera - thought to be the largest slum in the world - a place where approximately a million and a half people are crammed into a single square mile of space. We were told that we would simply drive around the outskirts of the slum because conditions there were deemed too dangerous for us to actually go in. Our driver told us about the 'post-election violence' back in December 2008 that resulted in riots in the slum with many people being injured or killed and houses, businesses, and churches being destroyed. According to him, tensions are still high.

Approaching Kibera was completely mind-boggling. From a hill overlooking the slum, Kibera looked to be a jumble of corrugated metal roofs that stretched in all directions as far as the eye could see. The makeshift houses , constructed from whatever the residents were able to scrounge up, sit on layers of compacted trash. Through the middle of the slum runs the Nairobi River, known locally as 'the river of trash'. The residents of Kibera are squatters and must pay rent and 'protection' money - usually in the amount of about $10 per month. This is a hefty fee for someone who makes a dollar a day if he/she is lucky. The people of Kibera suffer due to inadequate food and water supplies, exposure to a multitude of diseases due to lack of sanitation, and little or no education. More often than not, one or more of the adults in a household have HIV/AIDS. An entire generation (25 -35 years old) has already died from the disease. About half of Kibera’s population is under the age of 15 - many households are made up of groups of young children who have lost their parents and don't have other family members to take them in.

After driving around the perimeter of the slum, the driver pulls over and opens the door for us to get out. Apparently, plans have changed - if nothing else, I've learned the importance of flexibility on this trip! We get out, pick our way through the crowded, trash-filled streets - taking great care to avoid the plastic bags. (Remind me someday to tell you about those bags.) I feel more than a little uncomfortable as we walk through the slums in a large group. I'm hoping that we don't look like a group on a 'slum tourism' tour. (They actually have those!) There is so much to see, so much that I'd like to record, yet I don't want to offend or intrude by taking photos of such heart-wrenching and intimate scenes. Besides, I'm sure these images will be burned into my memory for the rest of my life.

Day 6 - Nairobi's Slums

Little did I know that this day, our first full day in Kenya, would turn out to be the most disturbing, overwhelming, yet rewarding part of this trip. Today we visited the slums of Nairobi. Coming from the metro Detroit area, I thought I knew what a slum was. I was wrong. In fact, the dirtiest, most run-down, burnt out, crime-ridden section of Detroit would be a middle class enclave compared to the slums we saw in Nairobi. Nothing could have prepared me for this experience.
Nairobi is a city of great contrasts. On one hand, it is a bustling, cosmopolitan city - home to many international companies and organizations including a huge tourism industry. On the other hand, it is an overcrowded, dirty, smelly, disease-ridden, crime plagued dump. And none of that is an exaggeration! The two slums we visited, Mathare & Kibera are located at the bottom of former rock quarries that had been used for years as garbage dumps and then had these 'settlements' built on top of the heaps of garbage. Nairobi has a population of about 3 million people- 60% of whom live in the slums. Mathare covers an area of about 1 sq. mile and is home to more than half a million people. Kibera, the largest slum in Africa, is about 2 sq. miles in size with more that a million and a half people.
Walking into the slum, it's the smell that hits you first. The unmistakable smell of raw sewage, rotting garbage and burning charcoal. The 'houses' are tiny (maybe 6x6?) and are constructed from a variety of materials - sticks, mud/dung, cardboard, plastic sheets, rusted tin. There are no foundations and the houses lean against one another. The roofs are flat, held down by rocks. Most houses don't have any windows and the doorway has no door. There is no electricity, water or sanitation.
The alleys are narrow and crowded filled with goats, chickens and dogs. And children. Oh the children.... they're everywhere you look. Dresses in rags, they stand or squat next to their huts waiting and watching silently. Some are lucky enough to be in school, but most are not because their families can't afford the fees to send them. Our first stop in Mathare is at one of these schools that has @120 children ages 3 - 10 - most are orphans. We arrived in time to serve their morning 'porridge' which is basically a warmed up flour and water mixture. It looks like wallpaper paste but the kids look forward to it and most drink several cups. It is probably the first thing they've had to eat since lunch yesterday.